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| Bones of the human wrist and hand |
Most cameras are hand held devices so it makes sense
to begin a study of camera ergonomics with an exploration of the range of
movements and capabilities of the hand and fingers.
I take it as self evident that a camera should be
designed to fit the hand, not the other way around.
Size Wikipedia gives 189 x 84 mm as the average size
for an adult male hand and 172 x 74 mm as the average for an adult female. Hands
vary in length, width and finger thickness. However reasonably healthy hands
all function the same way.
I have found that with thoughtful design is readily
possible to make a camera which can accommodate most of the hand size/shape
variation in the general population from children aged about 10 to adults.
The skeleton of the hand and wrist has 27 bones. There are 8 carpal bones in the wrist giving
it flexibility in all directions without which operating a camera would be
almost impossible. Next come the 5 metacarpal bones, then the phalanges, of
which the thumb has 2, the other fingers 3 each.
Sensory
capability To operate a
camera the fingers must detect touch and position to a high level of
sensitivity. This is particularly the
case with modern electronic cameras with many controls. My reading of research
on this subject would indicate that sensitivity increases towards the
fingertips, being greatest just below the nail bed. It would also appear that
the thumb is less sensitive to touch discrimination than the other fingers.
These characteristics are important to the design of physical controls.
Basic
Hand Posture This is the ‘half closed relaxed’ posture
which is a natural position for the hand
to adopt. Muscle force is required to
clench the fingers further, straighten
them, or move them into a different alignment.
A properly designed camera will be sized and shaped to fit easily into
the relaxed hand, which can then grip the camera securely with minimal stress.
Movements Each finger has a range of possible
movements which are critically important to the design of the shape, layout and
controls of a camera. I find it useful to categorise fingers as
"grippers" or "controllers".
Right
Index finger
This is a controller. It has good position and touch sense. It can curl
and straighten in the line of the
finger. It can also angle from side to side at the metacarpophalangeal joint
over a small but vitally useful range.
These movements can take place without the slightest change in the
position of the hand or any other finger. You can demonstrate all this for
yourself. These characteristics make the index finger the best choice for
actions required to be made during the capture phase of photography, that
is, while one is actually in the process
of making photos.
Right
middle, ring and little fingers. These are grippers, usually operating
together as essentially one gripping unit. They will function best if the camera is designed so all three
can get a proper hold on the camera's handle.
| Opposition of the thumb. This is essential to holding a camera. |
Right
thumb The role of
the thumb in holding and operating a camera is complex. In most cases it has to
perform both gripping and controlling functions. It requires good design to
achieve both at once.
The thumb has three main movements: Opposition,
Flexion / Extension and side to side movement.
Opposition is rotation of the metacarpal bone at the
carpometacarpal joint. This allows the tip of the thumb to simultaneously touch
the tips of the other fingers. Opposition is essential to holding and operating
a camera.
Flexion / extension can occur at the
metacarpophalangeal joint and the interphalangeal joint.
Side to side movement occurs at the carpometacarpal
joint. Note this is quite different from the index finger which uses the
metacarpophalangeal joint for side to side movement.
So what ?? do I hear you asking ?? Well, so quite a
lot as it happens.
You need to have the thumb metacarpal in opposition to
be able to hold onto the camera with the right hand.
There are lots of buttons and dials on the back of
modern cameras. Some can be pressed / operated with the thumb held straight or
almost so. This is desirable because with the thumb in this position opposition
at the metacarpal bone is present and the user's grip on the camera can be
maintained.
But other cameras have controls which require you to
flex the thumb in order to operate them. Sometimes the controls are
inaccessible to a straight thumb,
sometimes a semi submerged or high/forward dial can only be operated with the
tip of the thumb. In either case,
flexing the thumb forces the metacarpal to derotate and opposition is lost. In
this case you cannot hold the camera with the right hand and operate the thumb controls at the same
time. You must support the camera with
the left hand while the right thumb is operating the controls. During
this process the index finger is sitting idle, when it could have been
operating controls with no disruption to the right hand grip at all.
Many modern cameras have a ‘4-Way controller’ module
in the lower part of the control panel.
Operation of this module requires the thumb to drop down from its
capture position. This disrupts opposition and forces the left hand to support
the mass of the camera and lens while the 4-Way controller is being operated.
This is not the end of the world and users get accustomed to it but there is a
better way.
Why does all this matter ??
There are four phases of camera operation; Setup,
Prepare, Capture and Review. In the Setup, Prepare and Review phases, it is
perfectly satisfactory to fully support the camera and lens with the left hand
while operating buttons, dials or even touch screen controls with the right
thumb. But in the Capture phase that is not acceptable. While actually in the
process of taking photos the operator needs to be able to adjust all primary
and secondary exposure and focussing parameters while continuously viewing the
subject with both hands firmly supporting the camera.
Many modern cameras require derotation of the thumb
metacarpal or in some cases complete removal of the base of the thumb from the
camera in order to access the controls required during Capture phase
operation. Many also require the user to
look at the controls in order to hit the right one. This destabilises the right
hand grip, jiggles the camera, takes the user's eye off the subject and disrupts the flow of taking
photos. Many of these camera work just
fine in one of the fully automatic, snapshot settings, where the camera makes
all the key exposure and focussing decisions. But they are frustrating to operate in one of the user
control modes, for instance one of the P,A,S,M shooting settings.
Lateral
dominance I should
raise the issue of dominance. Most
humans are right side dominant. This means they perform better at writing and operating devices with the
right hand. Most also are right eye
dominant. These people have a left side
dominant brain. About 10% of people are left handed, although about half of
these also have left side brain dominance. Crossed and/ or mixed dominance is
not uncommon.
Cameras are designed to be operated by right handed
people. Those who are left handed are not catered for. In this case the user
has to adapt to the camera which is ergonomically suboptimal. However, most
manage to train their non dominant side to do the job. They have little choice,
until someone comes up with a right/left inverted camera shape.
Left
hand
Like the right hand, the left hand has to carry out
holding, supporting and operating duties. However while the position of the
right hand on the camera is usually fixed by the handle and principal controls,
the left hand has a more roving type of assignment. The same wrist/finger
movements allow freedoms and impose restraints on the types of actions which
the left hand can perform.
Next
I will explore further the application of an understanding of functional
anatomy to the design of a camera and its controls.



Great stuff ,i am left handed and your observations seem correct.I have always said that for me a humped camera (dslr style) was always faster and would be the choice for events,wildlife etc.The problem i have is that i love the styling of the rangefinder.For slow/personal work they are fine. Can't offer any help as i have only just started to really consider your in depth work.I think people are happy to have ergonomic problems over looks!.
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