I have developed a systematic approach to
understanding, describing and measuring camera ergonomics.
All of this work is publicly available on this blog,
free to anyone with an internet connection.
I have come to the view that it is possible
to craft a camera with ergonomically ideal size, shape and controls.
Of course some people will disagree but that is more about
human nature and individual experience than camera design.
Basic
concepts
1. Ergonomics can be defined as
a) The study of
designing equipment and devices that fit the human body, its movements and
cognitive abilities (Wikipedia) and
b) Characteristics
of a device which maximise productivity.
2. With reference to cameras I propose that
The
essence of camera ergonomics is the number and complexity of actions required
to control the device.
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| Mockup #6 in hand, showing the right index finger operating the quad control set and thumb in normal position. The camera can be driven by those two fingers without having to change grip. |
Characteristics
of the ergonomically ideal camera
Fixed
zoom lens
The main advantage of a dedicated camera over a smart
phone camera module is the ability to change focal length over a wide range.
Zooming a single lens requires far fewer, less complex actions than changing
lenses.
Obviously the more zoom range the better,
ergonomically. There are plenty of actual
cameras which have a built in zoom ranging from wide or superwide at one end to
super telephoto at the other end of the range.
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| Mockup #6 rear view showing thumb stick and rear dial and other controls |
Size
The vast majority of cameras are designed to be hand
held by humans. This may seem to be stating the obvious but I make the point
that no cameras are intended for use by possums or kangaroos.
Human hands vary in size and to some extent in
width/length ratio but absent disease or deformity they all have the same
functional anatomy.
I have discovered that it is readily possible to
design a camera size and configuration which can easily accommodate small,
medium and large human hands.
The mockup shown here achieves that. I can hand this
to any human from age about 12 and up and they will very quickly get a
comfortable stable grip on it.
The dimensions are width 130mm x height 88mm x depth
125mm.
This is about the same as a Panasonic FZ300 which I use
frequently and find to be in the “goldilocks zone” for size and handling. The
mockup has a slightly fatter, more evolved anatomical handle shape and control
layout.
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| The thumb can easily swing left to bear on the thumb stick, right to operate the rear dial or flex at the interphalangeal joint to operate the AF-ON button (hidden), without disrupting grip. |
Shape
You can see the mockup has a fairly standard DSLR-like
shape. This is not an accident or a copy of anything or evidence of any lack of
research on my part. It is just that after years of experimenting with all
manner of different shapes I have found this one is the most effective
ergonomically.
It provides the best fit for the functional anatomy of
the hands which have to hold and operate it.
Note that the mockup has high shoulders to provide the
maximum possible handle height within the overall height of the camera. This
allows a full five finger grip.
Configuration
There are two main configurations in modern cameras,
with variations. The most common is [Mode Dial + single or preferably twin
control dial] as seen on many DSLRs and
MILCs.
The second is some variant of a hybrid
traditional/modern layout with aperture ring on the lens, shutter speed dial on
top of the body and often with a dedicated exposure compensation dial. This
configuration has its advocates but the [Mode Dial + control dial] system
allows the user to control the camera with fewer actions, each less complex.
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| GH5 with 12-60mm lens. My ideal camera has a fixed lens but the GH5 body has several desirable ergonomic attributes. |
Holding
arrangements
Key features here are the handle and thumb support.
I have spent several years experimenting with handle
shapes in my mockups and using actual cameras with a variety of handle shapes.
The optimum shape is the “inverted L” seen on the
mockup. This provides a very comfortable, secure grip with minimal muscle
effort and places the fingers of the right hand where they need to be for
optimum operation of the controls.
A nice inverted L handle can be seen on the Canon
Powershot SX60 bridge camera. The EOS M5 has something similar.
The optimum thumb support allows the right thumb to
lie diagonally across the top right part of the control panel (the section of
the rear of the camera to the right of the monitor). It needs to be deep enough
to provide a secure grip without undue muscle effort. Many DSLRs and some ILCs
and bridge cameras have a decent thumb support.
The thumb needs to be positioned so it can easily
swing left and right from the basic position to operate controls on either
side.
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| GH5 rear. This is good but could be improved with a more prominent thumb support. |
Viewing
arrangements
The ideal ergonomic camera has
1. A good quality EVF with no blackout. At the time of writing only one camera meets
this criterion, the Sony A9. Others will follow in due course.
2. A fully articulated monitor.
Both EVF and monitor can be configured to look the
same and both can be configured to “viewfinder style” with key camera data
beneath, not overlaying the preview image.
Controls
Shutter
button Optimally
this goes where the right index finger wants to find it. The best position is shown on the mockup.
Several DSLRs have the shutter button in approximately this location.
Twin
dials The most
effective control system is twin dials, one operated by the right index finger,
the other by the right thumb. I have
written several posts about this but in summary the most ergonomically
effective arrangement is that seen on the mockup and the Panasonic GH5.
One dial controls Program
Shift in P Mode, Aperture in A Mode and Shutter Speed in S mode. The other dial
can control any user selected function but exposure compensation is one of the
most useful guided by zebras in the EVF.
In M Mode one dial
controls aperture, the other shutter speed.
The front face of the front
dial is 5mm behind the rear of the shutter button. This is just enough to
ensure the right index finger will not foul one when operating the other. Many
cameras including most Canons have the front dial un-necessarily far back, then
another row of buttons behind that. This requires excessive lateral movement of
the right index finger.
The rear dial is embedded
in the upper part of the thumb support. It can be operated simply by swinging
the thumb to the right without having to flex the interphalangeal or
metacarpo-phalangeal joints at all.
The haptic qualities of
the dials are also important. The serrations on the dials need to be deep and
sharpish in profile with just the right amount of clicky resistance to turning.
If you don’t believe all
this go handle a GH5 in a camera store.
Quad
control set
Many cameras have three rows of controls arranged front to back with the
shutter button at the front (Nikons have the front dial at the front and down
the handle away) then the front dial then a row of buttons. In order for the
right index finger to reach those buttons it has to stretch quite a distance
away from the middle finger.
I realised that two
buttons with user allocated function could easily be fitted to the right side
of the shutter button and front dial. These are much easier to reach with the
index finger. I call this arrangement a “quad control set”. I would allocate to these buttons parameters
which might need to be changed in the Capture Phase of use, such as ISO or
exposure compensation.
The ill fated Samsung NX1
had such an arrangement although Samsung messed up by not allowing the function
of the buttons to be user set.
Thumb
stick Every camera
should have a thumb stick (a.k.a. Joystick, JOG lever) Most people will not yet
have had the opportunity to use a camera with a thumb stick.
It is a wonderful invention
for quickly and accurately moving position of the active AF area and
controlling AF function.
It needs to be located in
exactly the right place where the thumb wants to find it and its function needs
to be configured with 8 way sideways action and options for press in function
which include AF-ON.
Auto
ISO algorithms
Some cameras like my little Sony RX100(4) have really clever auto ISO
algorithm. This is focal length responsive so it will increase shutter speed as
the lens is zoomed out. It also has five shutter speed bands, slower, slow,
standard, fast and faster.
Thus if I am photographing still subjects in low light
I might set the “slow” band.
If I am photographing grandchildren running about I might set the “fast” band.
This is an ergonomic issue because I don’t have to
switch back and forth from A or P mode to S mode when the camera selects an
unsuitable shutter speed for the conditions.
Putting
it all together
The mockup shown here illustrates the external physical
components of my ideal camera.
I have also shown the GH5 which has the highest
ergonomic score of the cameras which I have thus far tested.
I think the GH5 handle could be improved a bit and the
thumb support needs to be more prominent for better support. The GH5 also lacks
the quad control set.
Otherwise it is the right size for a full five finger
hold and has most of the desirable controls in the right places with good
haptics. The inappropriately placed Disp button can be disabled so it is not
forever being pressed accidentally.






Where is the ergonomics of the previously beloved fz1000? Do you consider fz300 much better than fz1000? Why was fz1000 not mentioned?
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Milan
HI Milan, Thanks for reading the blog and providing feedback which I appreciate.
ReplyDeleteI still score the FZ1000 better than the FZ300 because of some issues with the FZ300 controls on the left side of the lens housing. But the post is about an ideal size and layout and for that I find the FZ1000 slightly larger than optimal.
Andrew
Hi Andrew, you are right. I had fz300 in my hands and it is true about the size which meets my lower limit for comfortable hand-holding.
ReplyDeleteRegards,
Milan
Hi, I just read your article and found it very helpful and informative for photography freaks. You are doing a nice job. Well, if someone is looking to buy a digital camera under a tight budget then I'd love to recommend this list of digital cameras under $300. I bet you will find the best one for your needs on this link.
ReplyDeleteAndrew, I own a Panasonic G85 and find that once I set it up to my tastes, the front control ring around the shutter button and the rear dial operated by my thumb is the best control solution for aperture and shutter control that I have ever used. Quick, intuitive, and I hardly notice my finger movements. Keep up the great work.
ReplyDeleteRegards,
Steve
hi Andrew,
ReplyDeleteGreat arcticle.
My thoughs concerning camery ergonomy (your opinion is welcome).
Fundamental ideas:
- photographer should focus on creative part of work as much as possible => camera should do as much as possible from technical point of view itself;
- author should be able to react quickly => camera handling should be quick and very simple;
- camera handling should become "dynamic stereotype" something you do without thinking and should be simpliefied as much as possible;
- usual modes switching is complicated and add a lot of "layers" to "operate";
NOTE: I suppose mirrorless cameras is the future so my thoughs are based on this premise.
Metering: everybody uses evaluative metering and sometimes we need to use spot metering. But we need make correction to avoid blown lights (always!). And sometimes we need lock AE.
Focus: sometimes autofocus, sometimes manual focus (eventually AF-C).
Sometimes we need to use serial capture (low-medium-high speed).
Sometimes we need to switch BW / color (mirrorless cameras).
[Splitted to two part due to text lenght limitations...]
[The second part...]
ReplyDeleteMy ideas how to solve these problems (some of these solutions exist, some not):
- all controls should be divided to several (circa 2-3) groups according to react time requirements. Time critical operations should be reachable by one button. Less time critical operations could be reachable by "shifted" button. Less time critical operations (however still quick when compare to some mode switching) could be operated by some more complicated handling but still very quick.
FOCUS: focus button for thumb. Without press => manual focus (use lens ring). One click => single focus. Click and hold => continual focus. No need to switch modes. Instant access to all modes. (This solution has NIKON in fact). Plus foucus assist of course.
Focus point: move focus joystick => changing focus point position. Click focus joystick => change of focus mode i.e. central focus point only / automatically selected focus points / etc.
METERING: the best solution from my point of view would be automatic ETTR. We need catch as much light as we can (to have best color reproduction) and avoid blowing of image parts. Zebra or other method of overblown parts is fine. But it takes a lot of time to change exposition correction in my opinion and automatic ETTR would be (near) perfect solution.
APERTURE and TIME: I suppose I need correct exposition all the time (so ETTR see above). So the implicit behaviour of camera is correct exposition (fit time/aperture to get right exposure). If I don't want to have some aperture (to get DOF) or some time (to get some special effect like motion blurr) camera set aperture/time automatically (i.e. P mode). If I want to have special aperture OR time (only one of both at a time) I use roller (front for A, back for T) to change that parameter. The second one parametr is automatically adjusted to get proper exposition (aut.ETTR) - i.e modes A and T.
From time to time I want to change both parameters simultaneously (mode M). In that case I push some special button to switch to this mode (switch off automatic exposure).
The last problem to solve is the question: are selected parameters valid for one shot only (next shot will be P mode) or indefinitely (to the next change of parameters). I think answer depends on situation - somtimes I need to keep parameters (studio photography, one location, ...) sometimes not (street, situation changes all the time, ...). I think the best solution is some switch button to change between mode "One shot parameters" and "keep parameters".
ISO: AutoISO modes are very reliable today. So no need to find special solution. And if I need to set ISO manually its definitely situation out of dynamic stereotype so no time critical at all.
BW / color live view: sometimes I need to see how BW image will look like and vice versa. This is time critical operation especially on street. So some special button to switch it quickly would be solution.
All of problems described above could be complicated more with these questions: should some parameters be resetted after camera switch off->on ? should some parameters be resetted after some timeout (such function has NIKON concerning exposition correction I think) ?
I know my thoughs are very probably subjective. And other photographers could have other attitudes. All this could be simply overcome by some script system in camera. Usuall user will use camera as usuall (no special control/handling; standard PASM modes switch; standard behaviour we know for years). More ambitious user can use scripting system to tailor camera to his needs.