MICRO FOUR THIRDS PHOTOGRAPHY
Ergonomic evaluation of the Panasonic GH2
Author AndrewS May 2012
This is a user report after several thousand exposures in
general photography settings, mostly hand held, mostly outdoors, with a
selection of Panasonic and Olympus M43 lenses.
The mission of this blog is to increase consumer awareness
of ergonomic issues in camera design, so most of the report is about
ergonomics, however I will touch briefly on features, image quality and
performance of the GH2.
Description and Features
(highlights) This is Panasonic's top
M43 body clearly aimed at Level 3 (Expert/Controller, occasional use) and Level
4 (Expert/Controller, frequent use) users.
It also has a high level of video capability, not reviewed here, as there are
many differences between the still and video user experience. The video button
is located in a high priority zone just behind the shutter button and
disappointingly, cannot be user tasked to any other function. So if I am not
shooting video the button is blocking prime camera real estate which I would
like to use for a primary exposure parameter such as ISO.
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| Photo 1 GH2 Top Plate |
Some features of the GH2 are worthy of note. The multi aspect ratio sensor has proven more
useful and gets more use than I expected. I have allocated AR selection to the
fn1 button on the top plate and raised the height of this button by 1.5 mm by
adding a little disc of stainless steel fastened by super glue. Now I can
locate and operate this button by feel (which I could not do previously) while
looking through the EVF.
The AF/AE Lock button can be set to start/lock AF. This separates AF from exposure which is often desirable especially when using the focus and recompose technique.
The top plate has two Set and See dials and two Set and See levers allocated to Prepare Phase camera operation. This represents the best use of Set and See UIM's and works very well in practice. I can see directly and quickly change what shooting mode and drive mode are set and see directly what focus mode and exposure area are set. Photo 1 shows the set and see UIM's.
The AF/AE Lock button can be set to start/lock AF. This separates AF from exposure which is often desirable especially when using the focus and recompose technique.
The top plate has two Set and See dials and two Set and See levers allocated to Prepare Phase camera operation. This represents the best use of Set and See UIM's and works very well in practice. I can see directly and quickly change what shooting mode and drive mode are set and see directly what focus mode and exposure area are set. Photo 1 shows the set and see UIM's.
Some of the UIM's allow user set functions. This is highly
desirable as no camera maker can predict all the permutations of UIM function
which an individual photographer might prefer. Panasonic and all other makers
would do their customers a big favour by extending user configurability to most
UIM's, providing a choice of almost all functions of which the camera is
capable.
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| Photo 2 Blown highlights |
Image Quality I rate IQ as acceptable for the target user
group. Matters most needing improvement are (1) Noise, which is present even at
ISO 160 in shadows, particularly in the blue channel (2) Dynamic Range which is
just acceptable with many subjects but if greater would lead to less (3) Highlight
clipping which is a frequent occurrence especially outdoors in Australia where
scenes with high subject brightness
range abound. Otherwise I have some
reservations about this camera's color reproduction with several images not
quite rendering the subject as I saw it at the time. Photo 2
illustrates blown highlights on the
wheat silo structures.
Performance With one shot still photography performance is
very good. AF is sensitive, fast and
very consistently accurate, much better than any of the many SLR and DSLR
cameras I have used over the years. Manual focus is well implemented, easy to
perform with automatically magnified view and very accurate although the
absence of distance scales on the lenses is lamented. It is not possible to
preset a specified focus distance. Shot
to shot times are quick, with good
overall responsiveness.
Continuous shooting/AF mode is much less satisfactory. The
AF system can keep slowly moving subjects in focus, but EVF blackout after each frame is significant. As a
result tracking a moving subject is difficult.
Exposures are generally excellent. The camera regularly makes auto exposure judgements which make best use of the available dynamic range.
Exposures are generally excellent. The camera regularly makes auto exposure judgements which make best use of the available dynamic range.
Ergonomics The three elements of ergonomics are Holding, Viewing and Operating.
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| Photo 3 Relaxed Natural Hand Position |
Holding The GH2
has the shape of a DSLR with a hump on top and a projecting handle, but reduced
in size. This camera's existence and
identity depend on it being different from a DSLR so why the product development people at
Panasonic gave it a DSLR shape is an abiding mystery to me. Whatever the reason,
that decision has a big effect on holding and operating characteristics. The
projecting handle design works on larger cameras because the right hand is
opened up when gripping the handle. But on the GH2 (and G1,G2,GH1) the
projecting handle is much smaller so for adults with average sized hands the
handle shape and UIM locations are at odds with the natural half closed holding
position of the hand. The photos tell
the story more clearly than words. One
benefit of the projecting handle design
is that it makes the camera easy to carry in the right hand, ready to go.
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| Photo 4 GH2 Attempted Natural Grip |
Photo 3 Shows the natural, relaxed half closed hand position.
Best design practice would shape the camera to fit the hand in this position.
Photo 4 Shows an average sized adult male hand
holding the GH2 in the nearest possible approximation to a natural grip. You
can see the index finger is looking for a shutter release button somewhere in
space and the thumb is nowhere near any of the UIM's.
Photo 5 Shows what the same hand is forced to do in
order to place the index finger on the shutter release button and the thumb on
the AEL/AFL/AF Start button. The whole palm of the hand has to lift away from
the camera leaving only the middle finger actually holding the handle.
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| Photo 5 GH2 Forced Grip |
Photo 6 This shows one of the mockups I have built.
This one is the same height as the GH2, a little less deep and 20 mm wider. It fits easily into the same compartment in
my camera bag as the GH2. It is much more comfortable and secure to hold than
the GH2. All primary and secondary exposure and focussing parameters can be
adjusted in the Capture Phase of use without shifting grip at all.
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| Photo 6 Mockup Designed For Natural Grip |
Viewing Viewing arrangements on the GH2 are
generally very effective. The monitor is
of the swing out type, which is handy in many situations and protects the
screen when closed. The EVF is large, bright and clear, with excellent data
under and overlays and plenty of user configuration. There are newer and arguably better EVF's now
available but that on the GH2 is still very usable in single shot mode.
Operating For the photographer who makes occasional
pictures the GH2 will very likely be quite satisfactory. But for the user who
wants to make several hundred photos per day, the GH2's operating systems may
become frustrating.
The shutter button is perched top and front on the
projecting handle which is not where the index finger wants to find it.
The Main Control Dial (MCD) is incorporated into the thumb
rest and is operated by the right thumb. On the G1 and GH1 it was top and front
on the handle where it was completely obstructed by the middle finger of the
right hand. So they moved it to the back where at least you can now reach and
operate it. However this involves derotating the thumb metacarpal and flexing
the thumb interphalangeal joint, so as to bring the tip of the thumb to bear on
the dial. All this means the user cannot effectively hold the camera with the
right hand and operate it at the same time. This means one has to support the
weight of the camera and lens with the left hand while operating it with the right
hand. While not disastrous this does provide
a suboptimal user experience which could easily be improved with better
ergonomic design. The MCD has a "Push-Push"
operation. Push to change it's function
from controlling Aperture or Shutter speed (depending on shooting mode) to
Exposure Compensation. Push again to return to the former function. This is clever and it works. However my own experience is an exposure error
rate of about 5%, rising to 10% when I am working fast, caused by inadvertently
activating Exposure Compensation by pressing slightly too hard on the dial
while turning it. This problem can be removed with the Custom Menu, Page 5, Top line, Expo Settings > Switch by pressing the LVF/LCD button.
The rear control panel is very small. In consequence all the
buttons are tiny and all but the AF/AEL button are either recessed or smoothly
rounded. Despite several month's
diligent practice I cannot reliably locate
the buttons on the 4 way controller by feel while looking through the EVF. This in turn means I often have to look at
the buttons to find and operate them. In the case of the ISO and fn2 (to which I have allocated AF area selection) these
initiate Capture Phase tasks which should be easy to complete while looking through
the EVF but are often not. The other
problem in this part of the camera is that I often bump the WB button by
mistake due to it's location very close to the edge of the camera. I tried to raise the tactile profile of the 4
way controller buttons by placing a drop of clear epoxy on each. This has been
partly successful but the basic problem persists.
The ON/OFF switch is acceptably accessible. Having used
cameras with O/I switches almost everywhere I find those around the shutter
release button can be operated by touch, without having to look at the camera
to determine whether it is on or off and to switch from one state to the other.
The Q Menu is a good idea which could
have been much better implemented by
allowing the user to choose the items allocated to that button.
Summary As a stand alone item the Panasonic GH2 is a
good, but not outstanding, product
with acceptable features, image quality, performance and ergonomics for a Level
3 user.
The main appeal of the GH2 is that it provides an entry
point into the M43 system with a substantial and growing selection of lenses, a
thriving on line community and prospects for future development.
The Way Forward Operation of the GH2 in it's existing form could be somewhat improved
with the following minor changes: 1) Make function
of the video button and all 4 way
controller buttons user assignable from a long list of options, 2) Make contents
of the Q Menu screen user assignable, 3) Slightly
modify the thumbrest and main control dial for easier access and operation, 4) Replace
the 4 way controller buttons with a "rocking saucer" type controller
which is much easier to locate and operate with the right thumb by feel.
However if Panasonic wants to become a "First
Choice" option for Level 4 users,
then I believe major changes are required. It is possible to design a camera about the
same box size (w x h x d) as the GH2 but with greatly improved ergonomics. I know this because I have been researching, designing
and building camera mockups for the last two years. Details can be found in previous
posts on this blog site.






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