The FZ1000
is a tremendously versatile camera.
With no additional equipment or accessories it can deliver good results
with general photography, sport/action, wide angle, telephoto and much more.
This post is
about close up options.
Several years ago
I used to de- stress from a
hectic workplace by going into the bush on weekends and photographing flowers
of the Sydney region. I used a 35mm SLR with a macro lens, cable release, slow
transparency film, tripod and light
diffusers which required at least one more tripod. It was all very peaceful but setting up for a
photo would take at least 15 minutes.
Fast forward
to the digital era and much has changed. But the basic operation of a
modern DSLR is just the same as a 1960’s
SLR using film. The greatest leap
forward in versatility has been in cameras with a fixed zoom lens and this has
come from new technology in the construction of zoom lenses, particularly the
use of multiple aspheric elements.
This has
enabled lenses with a long zoom range and also the capacity to focus very
close. Both of these capabilities have
been available on cameras with very small sensors (usually with 7.5mm
diagonal) for some time, but the
FZ1000 adds a decent sized (15.9mm
diagonal) sensor and very good picture quality to the equation.
At the same
time cameras have acquired improved quality in the middle ISO settings range and more capable focus and
drive capabilities.
All these developments
have granted the intrepid close up photographer new freedoms and have
encouraged new ways of working in the close up domain.
A traditional macro lens,
when used for close ups, works
within a limited range of distances
between the camera and subject. But the FZ100 introduces a new set of
options. Close ups can be had with the
front element of the lens almost touching the subject or with the camera one meter
from the subject or anywhere in between.
I will
illustrate some of the options with reference to the photographs: By the way
all the photos have been cropped for publication.
The picture
above was made in my front garden. The
camera was hand held. RAW capture. Focal length E86mm, f8, ISO 125, 1/225 sec.
I brought the camera as close as possible without provoking the red AF box and “too
close” warning. I used autofocus and a
largish AF box (size 6/15). There was
some wind, causing the subject to move about and the insect was moving about,
as insects are wont to do. I set the
Drive Mode to Burst M and fired off a series of short bursts of about 5 frames
each. Many of the resulting frames were
unsharp but several were quite sharp and I selected one.
This is an
example of a close up with the camera at an intermediate distance of about
250mm from the subject.
Update February 2015: After some more experimenting I have found that the following settings are often useful:
Macro Mode: AF Macro
Quality: RAW
Focal Length: 65-69mm
Why this focal length ? As you zoom out from the wide end the analogue display in the lower part of the screen shows the equivalent focal length in mm plus the available focus distance range. This is 0.1meters to infinity up to and including a focal length of E69. But at 70mm it switches to 0.15 meters to infinity.
So focal length of E69mm gives a reasonable working distance from the subject. You don't need to have the front element almost touching the subject. It also provides a useful amount of enlargement for hand held close ups when out and about with the camera. It is good for many flowers for instance.
Update February 2015: After some more experimenting I have found that the following settings are often useful:
Macro Mode: AF Macro
Quality: RAW
Focal Length: 65-69mm
Why this focal length ? As you zoom out from the wide end the analogue display in the lower part of the screen shows the equivalent focal length in mm plus the available focus distance range. This is 0.1meters to infinity up to and including a focal length of E69. But at 70mm it switches to 0.15 meters to infinity.
So focal length of E69mm gives a reasonable working distance from the subject. You don't need to have the front element almost touching the subject. It also provides a useful amount of enlargement for hand held close ups when out and about with the camera. It is good for many flowers for instance.
For the
photo above the front element of the lens was almost touching the flower. I had
to remove the lens hood. I usually find little use for this option which brings
the camera so close it blocks light from the subject and would spook any little
creature thereupon. But this little flower was mostly backlit so the light was
not a problem. The flower was up high,
above my head on a small tree. It was a windy afternoon causing the flower to
wave and bounce about all over the place. It appeared to be an impossible challenge for
a close up shot.
So I set
Burst M (7 fps) and AF continuous, swung out the articulated monitor so I could
view above my head and fired off a series of bursts. Of course most of the
frames were blurred but some were acceptably sharp. This is the first time in
my life I used Shutter Priority, Burst and AFC for a close up shot and it
worked.
ISO 160,
Shutter Priority AE, 1/640 sec at f5.6, Focal length E25mm. RAW.
Now we come
to a close up shot with a camera to subject distance of just over 1000mm. The bees were working little flowers which
flourish in the grass. I bent over at the waist, pointed the camera straight
down, used AF Single and Burst M, shooting
in bursts of about 5 frames with RAW capture. Of course plenty of the shots had either the
bee or the flowers or both unsharp but quite a few got both the bee and flower
acceptably sharp.
RAW capture,
Shutter Priority AE, 1/640 at f4, ISO 125, Focal length E400mm.
This photo is of the same little flowers and bee
(well maybe it was a different bee) but this time I set the Quality to JPG and
enabled i-Zoom for a focal length of E800mm. I think you can see the RAW
version is better. In fact after making
many hundreds of photos with i-Zoom I have come to the conclusion that I get
better quality results with RAW capture, cropped in post processing.
This is
another shot which would have been almost impossible in the good old days. The
spider in its web was moving back and forth about 50mm in the breeze making focus very
difficult. The web was back lit with the
sun only just out of frame. I put the
camera on a tripod but left the head unlocked so I could change the camera
angle. I used Manual Focus as the AF
would not focus on the spider because
the background was so busy. Again I used
Burst M with multiple bursts when the spider appeared to be coming into focus.
Nobody is
about to enter this shot in a competition but the fact the FZ1000 enabled me to
take any kind of photo at all in such complicated conditions is somewhat
remarkable.
RAW capture,
Aperture Priority, f8, ISO 250, 1/80 second, Focal length E93mm.
The last
photo illustrates the use of a close up lens, screwed to the front element of
the camera lens.
I used a 58mm
Canon 500D which is a 2 element 2 diopter lens.
It is optically very good and enables real macro shots towards the long
end of the FZ1000 range. This permits a
useful working distance between the camera and subject.
The photo was
made in the early morning in low light. Hand held, ISO 1600, Aperture Priority
f8, 1/160 second, focal length (as recorded by the EXIF data) E398mm. The flower is about 25mm across.
Technically
the close up lens probably offers the best close up performance of all the
options covered in this post. It
provides the smallest angle of view, a useful working distance and good optics
while retaining OIS, AE and AF.
But I hate
it. This is the ergonomics blog and the
ergonomics of using one of the available good quality close up lenses are
dreadful. I have a B+W slimline protect filter on the FZ1000 with no front
thread. There are currently no 62mm double element CU lenses available new and
the (very) old Nikon ones available second hand are often exorbitantly priced.
Update: Thanks to Brad on the DPR Panasonic Compact Camera Forum I learned that Marumi makes a 62mm achromatic close up lens of +3 diopters (Marumi 330). I will investigate.
So to use the 58mm Canon 500D I have to remove the front filter from the FZ1000, put it in a clamshell container, take out the 500D, dig the 62-58mm step down ring from my bag, attach it to the 500D then finally attach the step down with 500D affixed onto the front of the FZ1000. The whole process is much worse than changing lenses. Every time I do this I drop at least one of the (fairly expensive) bits and the whole process is so time consuming it is hardly worth while. In addition I have to carry an oversized bag to contain the accessory bits and pieces.
Update: Thanks to Brad on the DPR Panasonic Compact Camera Forum I learned that Marumi makes a 62mm achromatic close up lens of +3 diopters (Marumi 330). I will investigate.
So to use the 58mm Canon 500D I have to remove the front filter from the FZ1000, put it in a clamshell container, take out the 500D, dig the 62-58mm step down ring from my bag, attach it to the 500D then finally attach the step down with 500D affixed onto the front of the FZ1000. The whole process is much worse than changing lenses. Every time I do this I drop at least one of the (fairly expensive) bits and the whole process is so time consuming it is hardly worth while. In addition I have to carry an oversized bag to contain the accessory bits and pieces.
Now IF someone made a good 62mm 2 element
or aspheric CU lens I would consider getting a protect filter which does have a
front thread and trying again. But for the moment I will pass on the CU option.
Hoya makes single element 62mm CU lenses, which I might
try at some stage.
Hi Andrew,
ReplyDeleteI stumbled onto your blog while researching the FZ1000 a few months ago now. I keep coming back. Thank you for all that info. Specifically about the FZ1000.
As for CU filters, there's a much easier way to use those. No screwing and no bayonet. Xume makes magnetic adapters that needs a thin ring on the lens, and a thin ring on any filter. It uses magnets to keep the filter on the lens.
I've bought some for the FZ1000. www.xumeadapters.com Only got them today but it works beautifully.
Happy shooting and greetings from up north on the Gold Coast.
Olger
Thanks Olger, I will check this option.
DeleteAndrew
The Nikon 5T is the only achromat I would use on the FZ1000. I also own the Canon 500D and Marumi 330, but they are very difficult to use on it, and the DOF gets too thin...they're great on the FZ200 though. You can find the 5T used on Ebay occasionally. I think I paid about $65 for mine last year.
DeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
DeleteHi
ReplyDeleteInterested to know, is there a possibility to blur background for (video and Photo) people shots indoor using a closeup lens. Since indoor there will be limitation on the distant for me to zoom well to achieve this. Can a close-up filter help with this?
...The question above is related to FZ1000
DeleteHI Sanjeev, I doubt it. A close up filter requires a very short distance from the camera to the subject.
DeleteAndrew